Ryan Tips

These ideas and suggestions come from Ryan owners based on their experiences. If you have a suggestion to add to the “Ryan Tips” list, please e-mail them to Bob at wolverbob@yahoo.com.



Front Disc Brake Conversion

This last weekend I completed the front disc brake upgrade to our 1995 Duplex and it is working out real well. What started this was putting a Pantour rear suspension hub on the rear wheel but this meant loosing our rear drum brake, which does come in handy as a drag brake on extended descents. To make up for the loss of the rear drum brake, I decided a front disc brake would do the job.

The first step was ordering a new front fork for the Duplex from Longbikes, one that had disc brake braze-ons. I guess I could have had someone weld the disc braze-ons to the old fork but I figured that the old fork had 10 years of stress on it and a new one may be safer to have. The new fork is almost identical to the old one except the steerer tube is 1/2 higher, but my local bike shop had no problem cutting this down to fit properly.

For a front disc brake wheel, I ordered a 20" one from Peter White Cycles, using a Rhyno Lite rim and a Phil Wood disc brake hub. For the disc brake itself, I ordered an Avid front mountain bike brake. With all the parts assembled, the only surprise was that the disc brake rotor spins very close to the left fork arm, but still gives the clearance needed. Also, my Planet Bike 20" front fender still fits, although I had to bend the lower support wire and add a spacer to the fork arm attachment to keep it away from the brake. I have only taken the bike out a few times for short rides, so the brake pads and rotor are still being broken in, but the stopping power so far is great.


The first question people ask when looking at a used Ryan is "how old is it?" It can be hard to tell because serial numbers were not stamped onto the bottom of the bottom bracket until later models. There are some other methods to date a Ryan: Look for the Ryan logo on the headset tube. An early design was two R's stacked vertically (as seen on this page). Later, there was a double R (the infamous Rolls Royce design mentioned in this interview) like on the left side of this page, which is serial number 00426, built in 1996. After that, a single 'R' was used according to Dick Ryan. Look for a serial number under the bottom bracket which would indicate a later model as the early models didn't have one (look at the owners' database to see what numbers correspond to which date ranges).

Look at the seat stays, where they attach to the rear wheel stays. If there is a row of holes drilled into 2 long pieces of metal welded to the wheel stays, it is an older model (as seen on this page). The newer models used an adjustable rod rather than many holes to adjust the seat angle (as seen on this page).

Look at the seat clamp. There is a newer simpler design with two quick release clamps on it that came out in '95 I think. If there is a row of holes that the seat slides along, it is the older design.

Note that you shouldn't be scared of an older model just because it's older. Even the old ones were great and won many many rave reviews in RCN over the years. - Paul Bruneau


  1. Cateye Mity - 1. The Cateye Mity (or any of the current model “corded” Cateye’s) computer works very well on a Vanguard. The computer itself can be mounted on the end portion of the handlebars with the pickup wire going back to the rear chainstay. With this arrangement, there is no need to buy the optional “long” wire kit. The Cateye manual states that the distance from the pickup probe to the magnet mounted on the spoke should only be 2-5mm but a distance of 1/2" will work just as well.
  1. Cateye Cordless 2 - A Cateye Cordless 2, model CC-CL200 has been reported to work well on a Vanguard. The magnet is on the front wheel, and the computer is inserted into the head tube. A rider reported “It works very well, and allows me to see the computer while riding without having to look down at the bars. Previously I had a bar mounted computer with a rear wheel magnet and pickup, and found this to be a bit distracting while riding, to have to look away from the road to see the computer. Also, it was in the way of my hands at times when on the bars. My Vanguard had a small plastic cap ("ATI") over the head tube that was easily popped out. I then inserted the computer with the mount and straps hanging down into the head tube. It stays in place simply by way of gravity and the friction of the straps hanging down and spreading against the inside of the head tube. While it generally has stayed in place well while riding, it did bounce out of place when I rode over some railroad tracks, so I need to improve the "mount". It is a bit far away, but quite visible and readable while riding. Also there are no wires to route or contend with. The magnet is on the front wheel and the pickup on the front fork. I had to roll the bike out to calculate the smaller wheel circumference. This particular computer is now being replaced by a newer model, and I was able to buy it on closeout from Performance for about $35 which was about half the original price. It worked so well I picked up a couple more for other bikes in the stable.” - Paul McGrath

Computer Mounting

See “Waterbottle Mountings”


There are two options for a fairing to fit a Ryan

Mueller – The Hostel Shoppe advertises a Mueller Windwrap model 85523 fairing with mounting hardware at http://www.hostelshoppe.com/fairing_fitlist.php. The fairing and mounting hardware run around $500.

Zipper – Photos of a Ryan with a Zipper fairing is at http://www.zzipper.com/Products/prod_lwb.php. The fairing and mounting hardware run around $500.


The Planet Bike recumbent specific fenders work very well on a Vanguard, and probably a Duplex also. They are low in price and fit with a minimum of adjustment. On older Vanguards, the front of the rear fender may have to be attached to the frame with zip-ties as there are no frame fender mounting bolts. The only pain about the new “improved” Planet Bike recumbent fenders are the metal support rods, which you have to cut (using a hacksaw) to fit the proper length for your bike. The old ones had nut/bolt attachment adjustments and were much easier to adjust.


On a Vanguard, the best working kickstand seems to be a Greenfield chainstay kickstand. These cost about $20 and offer the bike quite a bit of support as well as a fairly upright parking angle. When you mount the chainstay kickstand, slide it as far back as it will go and then the top part of the kickstand will move up against the top chainstay tube. Also, don’t tighten the kickstand down too much as it is cast metal and can crack. Older Vanguards have a fitting welded on the bottom tube that is meant to mount a kickstand but you may find the fitting is not all that strong and the bike may flex quite a bit, maybe eventually leading to the support breaking off.



1.     Minoura Bottle Cage Holder - A rather ingenious light mounting was seen on a Longbikes Eliminator that should also work on a Ryan. A person had bought a Minoura bottle cage holder (part #BH-95), inverting it and turning the black mount 90 degrees. They then mounted the two water bottle cage attachments to the two forward bolt holes on the top tube (the aft bolt hole, and a “shared” middle bolt hole can still be used for a water bottle cage). Next they took some 1/2" PVC pipe (4-1/2" long – longer than that and you may have heel strike issues) and mounted that in the “band” that the single allen wrench tighten-down fitting. This PVC pipe allowed a space for a computer mount and a light mount on either side of the attachment. Also, to give the PVC pipe ends a little more finished look, you can mount 5/8 nylon hole plugs in the end of the pipe.

2.     Terra Cycle Light Mounting Kits – These were new in 2007 and would appear to work well on a Ryan. See them at http://www.terracycle.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=T&Category_Code=Acmts

IPS – Independent Pedaling System (Dupex Tandem Related)

1.     Installing IPS – Report #1 –Well I finally got started putting an Independent Pedaling System (IPS) on my Ryan Duplex.  Last spring I had some extra money so I headed off to my LBS to order Vision's IPS only to find out Vision went belly up, boy was I bummed out.  After research I found out Sun Bicycles, the manufacturers of the EZ Recumbents had bought the rights to the IPS.  It will be distributed by their distributors, but was still unavailable in June, more waiting.  Jessie Bostic from Hostel Shoppe found this out for me and she said to contact her in a month or so, she is a pleasure to deal with.

I contacted her in late September and she had some in stock but my funds were low with the holidays coming, so it would have to wait once more.  I contacted her again this February and she said that they had two coming in and that Sun was out of them and didn’t expect any more till after April sometime.  I gave her a quick call and said I would take one of the sets, I had them in about a week.

With all that behind me and some of the parts in hand, I got started seeing what other problems I will face.  The timing chain moves to the right side of the bike so the steering linkage has to move to the left side.  I had bought the parts from Greg Peek at Longbikes over two years ago so with a tab welded on the other side of the fork (I'm a welder) this will be the easy part of the conversion.  The bottom brackets are too narrow to accommodate the IPS so they need to be replaced with wider ones.  After contacting Dick Ryan and finding out the captains’ eccentric BB is a stock Burley, I contacted them and found out that I can get a 132mm spindle (mines 118mm) and bearings through any Burley dealer.  I’m hoping 132 is going to be enough, it will be close.  The stoker BB has the same problem but it’s a standard cartridge type so should pose know problem.  Lake Country Bike in Northeast, PA is my LBS and is helping me with the parts and letting me pick their brains.

I also need new chainrings because the bolt pattern is different between my old crank and the IPS. I was running a 28/42/52 and was wondering what everyone else runs?  I live in Western NY along Lake Erie. Although it's flat along the lake the climb up the Niagara escarpment is dramatic and away from the lake is generally hilly.  I was thinking of maybe 26/40/50, someone else’s two cents worth would be appreciated.

Parts For Ryans

Some suggestions for replacement parts would be…

Longbikes – With the Longbikes being the latest derivative of the Ryan models, Longbikes may have parts that will fit them. Reportedly, Longbikes in the past had a Ryan Duplex and Vanguard at their facility for reference. Also, Longbikes is well known for quality products that are very durable. Contact Longbikes at www.longbikes.com.

Bicycle Man – Peter, at the Bicycle Man shop, has new steering tubes for the Ryan Vanguard. Contact the Bicycle Man shop (which also makes the new Linear recumbents) at www.bicycleman.com.


For some photo collections of Ryan recumbents, visit the photo section of the Ryan Owners Club Yahoo discussion group at http://sports.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/ryanownersclub/photos


Rear Racks

One problem for Ryans is the need for a rack attachment devise to attach the front of a rack to the bike itself. This requires a piece of metal that is in an 'S' shape when looking at the bike from its right side. To make one of these rack attachment bars, go to a hardware store and buy an aluminum strip that measures around 1/8” x 3/4". Use a vice to make the bends and then drill holes in the strip to match up the attachment holes on the front of the rack as well as the bolt holes on the rear top tube of the bike. There may be some trial and error in making the attachment but the price of the metal strip is rather cheap.

Front Racks

1.     It has been reported that a Nito rack will work on the front of a Ryan. These can be seen at Rivendell Bike Works, advertised in 2008 as “Marks Rack” for $88 – part #20-108. It has been reported that Arkel GT35's panniers will work well with this rack. Also, another rider noted that the Rivendell “Marks Mini Rack” is a good fit on the front. Not cheap ($60) but it works. 

2.     Another front rack that will work is a Low-Rider rack from Blackburn. Another person said they had luck with a Nashbar front rack on a Ryan.

3.     For what it's worth, you can get Jandd racks direct on sale quite often. I got a regular front low rider rack for my Vanguard. Low, rider racks have the drop out mounts about 1/2 of the way up the rack so I cut the lower piece off to fit the small tire.  It's a work in
progress but the rack itself cost $15. It's going to mount to the headset when I'm done, a brilliant idea from a guy I knew back east.

4.     For photos of a low rider front rack on a Vanguard, visit http://sports.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/ryanownersclub/photos/browse/a0ee

Seat Breaks

I repaired my seat when the aluminum tubing broke just below one of the aluminum triangles on the back.  Inserted a piece of aluminum tube inside the seat tube for reinforcement and then took it to a welder who tig welded the break. Cost me ten dollars.  I have to admit that it could use a new paint job.

Seat Cushions

Some Ryan riders have used the Therm-A-Rest seat cushions on the bikes with a great deal of success. These were even an option from Ryan in the 1990s. The cushion that fits real good is the Therm-A-Rest Camp Cushion/Backrest (8”x16x2”) and costs about $18-20 in most camping stores. Also, in the Hostel Shoppe catalog it looks like they sell this same cushion along with a cover and attachment belt (part #73731).

Seat Frames/Fabric

1.     (2007) - I just called the place that made mine a few years ago and they still can make the web seats for anyone for $50.  The place is called "The Center for Appropriate Transport (CAT)"  455 W. 1st Ave., Eugene, Or. 97401  (541) 683-3397 or (541) 344-1197.  When they made mine I didn't want the center support hook, and I asked them about that during the call, I think you're going to need to explain or get a picture to them so they would have a clear understanding of the thing.  For what it's worth, I think my seat is just fine without it.

2.     (2007) - If the Vanguard mesh seats are the same as those on the Duplex, Dick Ryan can either provide new ones ($75 each) or repair the old ones ($15 each). Note that these prices were quoted in March, 2006, so they may be different today. I ordered and received replacements from Dick for both seat covers last year. Dick generally monitors this (Ryan Owners Club discussion group) list, so he may weigh in on this himself.

3.     For a new seat mesh, try Greg Peak, the owner of Longbikes in Englewood, CO.  He has contact with a lady somewhere that sews these up. Greg's phone is: (303) 986-9300. His email is:   Info@LongBikes.Com.

Seat Mountings

A rider passed this on about problems with the Ryan seat mounts… “The four bolts you loosen to slide the seat fore and aft have always been a problem for me, they are hard to line up through the delrin blocks and recently, one stripped even though it was not cross threaded or over tightened. I think aluminum threads flex with each loosen/tighten cycle and eventually break,

We drilled them all out (even though only one was stripped) and tapped and then installed helicoils to provide stainless threads in all four holes to mate with the original bolts. I think this is going to be a great fix, should anyone else have this problem.

S & S Couplings

These work really well, allowing you to split a Duplex, or a Vanguard, into basically two sections. Owners who had a non S & S Duplex who sent it in to be modified report absolutely no difference in bike handling and never a problem with the couplings coming loose. It takes 10 minutes to assemble an S & S Duplex/Vanguard, same amount of time to take apart.

On a Ryan there are two heavy-duty couplers that split the frame in half. The couplers are loosened/tightened with a special spanner wrench. The derailleur and brake cables are “split” by special cable couplers.

S & S couplers again can be added to an older bike, but S & S is very picky who they allow to be a dealer/installer. For more information on the couplers, visit the S & S website which also contains a list of shops that can modify a used bike. Photos are also available of a S & S Duplex as well as a Vanguard.


1.     Yes, I've shipped my Ryan Vanguard many times. It will fit in a "UPS-able" sized box with a little disassembly. You will have to remove the seat, handlebars, wheels, rack, and front fork. I don't disconnect the cables - just position the handlebars parallel to the frame and tie it there. I can ship my wife's and mine in 3 boxes - seats and wheels in one, one frame each with our bags in the other 2; The most recent was a trip from Seattle to Lansing, MI. I shipped the bikes to a friend in Seattle, we flew to SeaTac, assembled the bikes and rode to Lansing (daughter's house), then shipped the bikes home (South Carolina) and took the train. I usually get boxes at WalMart.

2.     Keep in mind the advantage of a cardboard box over a more durable case for bike shipping.  With a cardboard box you have the option of discarding it if storing or transporting the empty container is too much trouble.  I usually find a water heater box or a refrigerator box and cut it down to 66 X 30 X 13 inches.  My disassembled Vanguard (seat and wheels included) will fit in this size box with the fork on the bike but turned 180 degrees to face the back of the bike.  I attach two wheels (two inch diameter) to a piece of plywood mounted to the bottom of the box so I can roll the box like a suitcase with wheels.  The wheels and plywood are saved and reused even it the box is discarded.  This box size will meet the requirements of most airlines and I usually take the boxed bike on the plane with me.  Once I flew to Seattle, unpacked the bike, cut the box in half, inserted one half of the box inside the other half and taped them together, mailed it to Grand Rapids, Minnesota where I later arrived by bike.  There I reconstructed the full size box with some glue and scrap cardboard and repacked the bike to fly home.  You are right though that making the box is a pain.

If you buy a shipping container you might investigate the airline limitations on size and weigh of the container with the bike inside it if you think you might want to take it on a plane someday.

3.     S & S Machine (makers of the S & S couplers which allow you to split your bike in half for shipment) have photos on their webpage of a Duplex with couplers fitting into a box.

4.     Pedal Pack (otherwise know as Bike Pro) sells a hardshell tandem case that will allow a Duplex with S & S couplers to fit inside. This same case will fit one, and possibly two, non-coupled Vanguards into it. When fitting a Duplex into this case, many items need to be taken off the bike (seats, racks, fenders, steering, etc.). Also, for some reason, Internet Explorer has a habit of saying the Pedal Pack/Bike Pro site is “questionable”. You can call Pedal Pack at 800-338-7581 or email them at customerservice@bikeprousa.com.

Steering Rods/Parts

Note – New Ryan-specific steering rods are available from “The Bicycle Man” recumbent shop, the same shop that builds new Linear recumbents in New York State. The new steering rods are manufactured using an old Ryan steering rod and run around $100. For more information, contact The Bicycle Man at 607-587-8835 or email through their web page.

1.     This is from Ryan builder Dick Ryan - Some comments on the steering rods. We used a relatively soft stainless because in the event of bending the rod in an accident you could straighten it by hand enough to get home (and also because it was readily available) The last couple of years we went from 1/2" stainless to 5/8" aluminum so we could use the same rod diameter for both the tandem and the single. The 5/8' rod actually made the single feel as if it tracked better (maybe my imagination). The clamp that attaches the rod to the handlebar was made by S&S machine, I believe he still has some in stock. For some reason Longbike changed the design of the clamp and basically installed it backwards, the clamp was made with an offset towards the centerline of the frame in order to get the rod in closer and out of the way of the inside of your calf muscle. He also changed it to require the use of three tools to adjust it instead of one tool. Maybe he has changed it back by now, I haven't seen one of the bikes in a long time. Other than those quirks the bike looks really good.

2.     I have had the same question. What you are looking for are ball joint assemblies which can be found at Wicks Aircraft Supply. EXACTLY which parts may be required, IE threading, is another question. Try Wicks Aircraft Supply at this link. There are many choices but which specific part that is necessary is my question. I am almost at the point of taking a trip down to the company with the parts off of my Ryan and see what exactly I need.

3.     I bought a bunch of those eyebolts from Greg at Longbikes a couple of years ago.  I assume he still has them and would have the proper threading.

4.     Try McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/. They have every thing in rod ends...metric, SAE, Stainless, left hand etc.

Steering Problems

1.     When I bought my Vanguard two years ago (made in the early 90's I think), there was some play in the steering. I tracked it down to a worn "spherical rod end" (also called a heim joint). These are the bearings at the ends of the steering rod. See the upper right box at http://www.midwestcontrol.com/92.php for photos of several types of spherical rod ends.

If one (or both) rod end has play in it, tightening the nut in the center of the handlebars will not help. Of course, I have no way to know if this is what's causing the "slop" in your steering.

I ordered a replacement from Longbikes since I was also getting new handlebar bar ends from them. (Their bar ends are pricey, but really, really nice.) I talked to Greg Peek at Longbikes on the phone to be sure I got the right rod end. You can also order the rod ends from any number of parts suppliers like Midwest Control Products. Just be careful to order the right one 'cause they come in a million varieties--shaft sizes; thread sizes; left handed or right handed threads; male or female threads; spherical ball with a stud or open for a through bolt; stainless steel, bronze, nylon, or Teflon bearings; etc.

2.     The Ryan steering rod connection to the handlebar diagram, and seat and steering diagram,  is available at http://sports.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/ryanownersclub/photos/browse/f720

Tire Reports

1.     (2004) - I tried a Primo Comet once, for about five miles.  Never again--I had no confidence in that tire after the first fast turn.  No lateral traction, or not anywhere enough for the front end of a Vanguard.  A light front end like the Vanguard requires good lateral traction, without question. I have a Schwalbe City Marathon there now, and I love it.  The City Marathon is a tread no longer offered, but the current Marathon does a good job also.  Others report that the Tioga Comp Pool works well, as does the Avocet FasGrip.  I haven't tried a Vredestein S'Lick, but it should work well, if you can find one.  I've heard that they no longer can be found in 20" sizes. Slick/bald is fine as long as you aren't dealing with sand or mud on a regular basis.  My original Haro freestyle front tire lasted 6700 miles before a lousy pump (not being able to get enough air in the tire after the first flat ever on that tire) cost me a great tire.

  1. (2004) - The tire that has consistently performed for me on long, self contained
    trips is the 26 X 1.25 Panracer Pasela Tg Road Tire with Kevlar bead. It's
    also amazingly a great everyday tire. Most heavy duty touring tires are very
    heavy and significantly effect performance, the Panracer Pasela is the
    exception, it's a fast tire.

    I overloaded my Ryan when riding through Newfoundland and Labrador and went thru 4 tires during the first 3 days. The other 26" tires (Hutchinson and Tioga) just couldn't handle the load and split. I'm industrially sized, 6' 240# and had about 80# of gear once it started to rain. So I was pretty sure no tire would handle those conditions. I was very wrong!!!

    I had brought along as an after thought a Panracer Pasela Tg Road Tire because it was the only folding tire I could find and didn't take up much space. I didn't expect much from a narrow, folding tire but that tire handled the load for the next 2 weeks (about 900 miles) with no complaint and I've been them using them since (6 years).

    The tire is light, fast, ultra strong, very tough and very precisely made. It's a relatively expensive to purchase but my experience is that in the long run it is well worth the price. There is nothing else even close to this tire available for a 26 inch wheel. The alternatives are heavy and not as strong. They also really hurt the speed and feel of the bike when it's not loaded. This tire is too good to stay on the market and I stock up on them whenever Bike Nashbar has a sale. The 26 X 1.25  size is hard to find, but if you find them stock up.

    I've used Maxxis Hookworms but threw them away. They are very tough but you
    feel like you're riding in mud. If I had to buy another tire instead of the Panracer Pasela because of availability is would be a Continental. The Continental Touring is a great tire but some of the newer models look very good and are available as folders. Again, 26" versions suitable for road riding can be hard to find.


1.     A Ryan Duplex will fit in a Dodge Grand Caravan, fully enclosed. The front wheel will be up by the passenger seat area, but it fits. A person, may, however, want to remove the front pedals off of a Duplex so they are not jabbing the passenger and driver. Also, bungee cords (four) help secure the bike to the floor of the van in back.

2.     A Duplex will also fit in the back of a truck with an 8 foot bed. The front of the bike will need to be attached to a front fork mounting device. The rear wheel can fit on the lowered tailgate. If you have a truck cap, you can lower the window down so it rests on the top of the rear seat, and then use bungee cords to keep the rear cap window from flying up.

3.     I have carried a Duplex on my trailer many times (a friend has one).  I mounted the center fork block on the trailer's tongue, some inches (I don't remember the measurement at the moment, and my trailer is at my mother's house) in front of my trailer deck.  I built a "beaver tail" of treated wood with two smaller strips of wood to keep the wheel from moving sideways, and used rust-resistant screws to secure it to the main trailer deck. My trailer is a 4x8 utility type built from a $250 kit like what can be found at J.C. Whitney.  The decking is simply 5/4x6 treated pine boards typically sold for decks on houses.  Seven of them cover the four-foot wide trailer deck, with slits between useful as a place for strap hooks.

  1. Also, when I bought my Ryan in 1996, I had a small car with a short roof.  No way to carry the bike, until I hit on the idea of building a trailer.  A 4x8 utility trailer available as a kit from J.C. Whitney (or similar) works well.  There are pictures of mine online somewhere, including on www.louisvillerecumbents.org that I sometimes get around to editing.  Here is one shot:  http://pages.prodigy.net/bikeolounger/images/arrival.jpg and another:  http://pages.prodigy.net/bikeolounger/images/loaded1.jpg. I can carry up to three tandem recumbents on this trailer, and three or four SWB bikes in my truck purchased since the demise of the aforementioned small car.
  1. Try this...  http://www.atoc.com/tandemtopper.html. ATOC makes a Tandem Topper rack specifically for the Duplex.  It is a longer version of the tandem rack.  It is easy for one person to put the Duplex on top of a car or small SUV.
  1. I modified a Thule tandem rack and we have transported our Duplex atop
    both a Chrysler Concorde and a Dodge Durango for years. The mod is indeed simple. I'm sure there are many approaches, but I simply cut the main tubing and inserted a spacer consisting of an appropriately-sized length of square tubing with an "inner core" of smaller tubing, drilled and bolted together. I also MIG-welded another "footplate"
    in the right place for bolting to the rooftop rack crossbar. It looks funny (http://www.ericsiegmund.com/paginacasa/bike_tales/oops.html) but is quite stable. And I guarantee it will be easier to load the Duplex onto your Prius than onto our Durango!
  1. Several years ago, I was faced with the reality of transporting two LWBs (a Linear and a Vanguard) with my then-current car, a Toyota Celica Supra.  My solution was to buy a utility trailer with a 4'x8' cargo area and mount fork blocks (in my case, original-style Bike Tights, but the current Yakima Blockheads would work as well).  I used 5/4x6 treated boards (as one would use for a wood patio or deck) for the floor, and attached thin strips of wood to create channels for the rear wheels of whatever bikes I mounted to the trailer.  I have carried a Duplex by fastening a 2x6 (with my slat channel) to the center board of my floor far enough back that the rear wheel sits solidly on it (the wheelbase is just a bit over eight feet, so I bolted the center fork block as far forward as I could).  I use cam-lock cargo straps to secure the rear of the bike to the trailer, and off I go. I've driven over 1200 miles in a long weekend with a Duplex so mounted, with no ill effects.

    This is not to say that your car will or won't handle the trailer, of course.  However, my empty trailer weighs a bit over two hundred pounds, and with the bike, a bit less than three hundred.  I used to store my trailer beside the apartment building where I lived, which required that I muscle it up two or three stairs.  I mounted a pair of small wheels to the rear crossmember of the trailer deck to enable me to do this.

    In this photo (http://pages.prodigy.net/bikeolounger/images/arrival.jpg) you can see me with my trailer as it is now outfitted.  On it are, from nearest the photographer, my Ryan Vanguard, a BikeE E2 and a RANS V-Rex.  In my truck are three Bacchettas--a Giro, a red Strada, and my own blue-and-silver Strada.  You can see my el-cheapo wheel trays.  What is harder to see is that I installed some Stanley "mending plates" spanning the gaps in the wood decking to provide attachment points for the cargo straps.

Waterbottle Mountings


1.     While the Vanguard and Duplex normally have one spot on the top tube (three bolt holes) to mount a waterbottle holder, additional waterbottles can be mounted on a number of locations on the bike using the Minoura bottle cage holder (part #BH-95), with the best place being the upper seat frame.

2.     A close look at the pictures of my Vanguard (http://ryanownersclub.com/scrapbook/tarmstrong/)will allow you to see that I have three bottle cages mounted on the seat stays.  I used stainless steel hose clamps to hold the cages to the seat stays.  Be careful to buy cages with "ears" where the cage screw holes are. The two main ones are like holsters for my bottles--easy to reach while riding with a motion not far from reaching for my wallet.  The third was originally installed as a place to keep the reservoir for an air horn.  The horn broke and has not been replaced, but I saw no reason to go to the trouble of removing the cage.

Water – Camelbacks

Both the Duplex and Vanguard will allow a Camelback water bladder to be mounted right behind the seats. Simply clip the mounting straps around the seat back supports and the top seat tube. - Bob Krzewinski

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